Materials · Sourcing · Care

Every gram, traced.

We alloy our own gold from raw 24k stock, source our colored stones from named mines, and grade every diamond against the GIA scale. Here is exactly what goes into the work.

Our metals.

All alloyed in-house · solid throughout · never plated

Brass-Yellow Gold

18k · 75% Au

Our default warm yellow — alloyed with copper and silver in a 4:1 ratio for a slightly warmer cast than standard 18k. Our most-requested metal.

Density: 15.6 g/cm³
Hardness: 140 HV
Solder: Hard yellow · 745°C

Old-Rose Gold

18k · 75% Au

Higher copper content for a soft, antique pink — the alloy our great-grandparents would have recognized. Excellent for hand-engraved work.

Density: 15.4 g/cm³
Hardness: 180 HV
Solder: Hard rose · 760°C

Platinum 950

95% Pt · 5% Ru

For solitaires that want a cool, silver-grey field. We alloy with ruthenium for a slightly harder bench feel. Used in about a quarter of our wedding suites.

Density: 21.4 g/cm³
Hardness: 135 HV
Solder: Pt-1700 · 1700°C

Stones we work with.

Sourced from named mines · GIA / GRS / SSEF certified

Stone	Origin	Treatment	Per-carat range
Diamond	Botswana · Canada · Lab	None / lab-grown	$1,400 – $9,500
Emerald	Kagem · Muzo	Minor oil	$2,200 – $11,000
Sapphire	Sri Lanka · Madagascar	None / heat	$1,200 – $8,400
Ruby	Mozambique · Burma	Heat	$3,400 – $14,000
Aquamarine	Brazil · Pakistan	None	$280 – $1,400
Pearl (Akoya)	Japan	None	$140 – $720 ea.

Sourcing

Two trips a year, by hand.

Marian and our gem buyer Adelaide Renner travel to Antwerp and Bangkok each year, and to one mine site (Kagem in Zambia or Ratnapura in Sri Lanka) every other year. Stones we won't put a hand on, we won't put a setting on.

Every stone above 1.0 carat ships with a full provenance card — mine, cutter, grading house, and the date Marian first met it.

2/yr

Sourcing trips

100%

Mine-traced >1ct

12yr

On the same bench

Loose stones being inspected on a velvet pad

At-home cleaning

Warm water, a drop of unscented dish soap, an old soft toothbrush. Three minutes, once a month. Avoid ultrasonic cleaners on emerald, opal, or pearl.

Annual restoration

Free for life on every piece we make — re-polishing, re-tipping claws, re-rhodium where applicable. Drop in or mail it back, postage paid both ways.

Insurance appraisal

We'll send a fresh replacement appraisal every five years on request, free of charge. Useful for Jewelers Mutual, Chubb, and most homeowner riders.